Crochet glossary and technique guide

Every abbreviation and technique used in our patterns, in US terms, with short how-tos. Each pattern PDF also carries the abbreviations it uses.

Abbreviations and stitches

ch

chain

sl st

slip stitch

sc

single crochet

hdc

half double crochet

dc

double crochet

tr

treble crochet

inc

2 sc in same st (increase)

dec

single crochet 2 together (decrease)

sc2tog

single crochet 2 together (decrease)

dc2tog

double crochet 2 together: two stitches become one (decrease).

FPdc

front post double crochet

BPdc

back post double crochet

BLO

back loop only

FLO

front loop only

MR

magic ring

st

stitch(es)

sk

skip

rep

repeat

sp

space

tch

turning chain

RS

right side

WS

wrong side

beg

beginning

US and UK names

Our patterns use US terms. If your tutorials use UK terms, the same stitch has a different name:

Techniques

Magic ring (MR)

Wrap the yarn around two fingers to make a loop, insert the hook in the loop, pull up a loop and chain 1, then work the stitches of Round 1 into the loop, over the loop and the tail together. Pull the tail to close the center tight. No luck? Chain 2 and work the stitches into the 2nd chain from the hook instead; the count is the same.

Spiral rounds (no joining)

Work round after round without joining or turning. Put a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you start each new round. Count your stitches at the end of every round and compare with the number in brackets.

Joined rounds

At the end of the round, slip stitch into the first stitch (or the top of the beginning chain) to close the round. The beginning chain is explained in each pattern: "ch 2 (does not count)" means it is only height and is not a stitch, so work the first stitch into the same place as the slip stitch.

Invisible decrease

Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next stitch, then under the front loop only of the following stitch. Yarn over, pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both. It dips less than a normal sc2tog, so the fabric stays smooth.

Stuffing

Stuff in small tufts rather than big handfuls and push each tuft into the farthest corners with the blunt end of a hook or a chopstick. It should feel firm with no stitch gaps showing; if you can see white between stitches, add more. Keep adding stuffing as the opening gets smaller; you can still add through the last hole.

Closing the last round

Cut a tail about 8 in (20 cm) long. Thread it on a tapestry needle and sew through the front loop of each remaining stitch, pull tight so the hole closes, knot, then push the needle into the body and out somewhere else, tug gently and snip so the tail disappears inside.

Safety eyes

Push the stem between two stitches while the piece is still open, then snap the washer on from the inside. Press until it clicks; they cannot be removed. Check both eyes from the front before you add the washers. Safety eyes are not suitable for babies or children under 3; embroider the eyes with black yarn or floss instead.

Sewing pieces on

Pin pieces in place and look at them from the front and the side before you sew. Use the long tail and a tapestry needle, and whip stitch through the back loops of the last round so the stitches disappear. Go around twice for a strong join.

Embroidered details

Use a tapestry needle and either yarn or 6-strand floss. Go in and out of the same hole at the start and end so knots and tails hide inside the stuffing. Make long stitches then tack them down with a tiny stitch.

Working in rows

At the end of each row turn the work like a page in a book. The turning chain at the start of a row makes height. "Ch 1 (does not count)" is not a stitch; "ch 2 (counts as dc)" is the first stitch of the row. The count in brackets includes it.

Foundation chain

Chain loosely and count carefully; mark every 10th chain with a stitch marker. The first stitch goes into the stated chain from the hook (the loop on the hook is not counted). If your edge pulls in, use a hook one size bigger for the chain only.

Front and back post stitches

Front post (FP): yarn over, push the hook from the front, around the stem of the stitch below and back out to the front, then finish the stitch as a normal dc. Back post (BP) goes around the stem from the back. The post stitches go in front of or behind the fabric, which creates the ridges.

Back loop only (BLO)

Every stitch has two loops on top. The back loop is the one farthest from you. Working only into it leaves the front loops as a visible ridge.

Changing colors

Work the last yarn over of the last stitch in the old color with the new color, then continue. Carry the old yarn up inside the stitches or cut it, leaving a 4 in tail to weave in.

Granny clusters

A cluster is 3 dc worked into the same space. Chain spaces at corners are where the corner is made: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same space. Count 3 clusters per side plus 4 corners to check your work.

Working edges

To work along a row-end side, put stitches into the end of each row, spaced so the edge lies flat; the counts are given for every side. If the edge ruffles you have too many; if it cups you have too few.

Reading repeats

*...* means repeat what is between the stars. "rep from * to *" or "x 8" tells you how many times. The multiple of stitches is how many a single repeat uses. Count at the end of every row and you will catch a mistake before it travels.

Blocking

Wet the finished piece or steam it without touching the iron to the yarn, shape to the measurements, pin if needed and let it dry flat. Acrylic needs only a light steam; cotton and wool respond best to wet blocking.

Making a gauge swatch

Crochet a swatch a bit bigger than the gauge square, lay it flat and measure over 4 in (10 cm). Too many stitches per inch? Go up a hook size. Too few? Go down. It takes 15 minutes and keeps your project the right size.

Weaving in ends

Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and weave through the back of 5-6 stitches in one direction, then back through some of them going the other way. Trim close, but not so close that it can pop out when stretched.

Joining squares as you go

On the last round of the new square, work to a corner and chain 1, then slip stitch into the matching corner chain space of the finished square. Chain 1 more, continue along the side, and for each stitch group join with a slip stitch into the chain space of the neighbor square instead of chaining. Your pattern says exactly where to join; the joined seam is flat and nearly invisible.

FPdc and BPdc in a basketweave

Front post (FPdc): yarn over, push the hook from the front around the stem of the stitch two rows below, and work a dc as usual. Back post (BPdc): same, but push the hook from the back. Alternating blocks of FPdc and BPdc make the woven look; keep the first stitch of each block in the same place on every row.

Standing stitches (new color without a chain)

Make a slip knot with the new yarn, put it on the hook, and work the stitch right into the stitch or space you want. It starts the new color with a neat, flat first stitch instead of a turning chain.

Reading our schematics and charts

The schematic is a flat drawing to scale with sizes in inches and centimeters, worked out from the pattern's own stitch counts and designed gauge. A chart shows the stitch layout the same way the written rows build it. The written pattern is always the master. They are illustrations, not photos, and your size will vary with your yarn and tension.

Designed gauge

A designed gauge is the number of stitches and rows per 4 in / 10 cm that the pattern's stitch counts and finished size are built on. We work it out from the pattern and say clearly when it has not yet been confirmed by test makers. Always make a swatch and adjust your hook size until you match it.