Crochet gauge calculator

Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit in a set measurement. If yours differs from the pattern's, the finished piece will come out a different size. Enter both gauges to see by how much, and how to correct it. Nothing you type leaves your browser.

How to measure a swatch

1. Crochet a swatch in the pattern's yarn, stitch and hook, at least a few stitches and rows larger than the gauge measurement so the edges do not distort your count.
2. Treat it the way you will treat the finished piece: if you will wash or block the project, wash or block the swatch and let it dry flat.
3. Lay it flat without stretching. Measure the width and count the stitches in the middle, then do the same for rows. Count whole and partial stitches in the span you measure, and enter the span you actually used.

How the maths works

For stitches, divide the count by the measured width to get stitches per inch (or per centimetre). Do the same for the rows. Following the pattern's stitch counts, your finished width is the pattern's width multiplied by the pattern's stitches per inch divided by yours. If the pattern gets 4 stitches per inch and you get 3.5, your fabric is 4 / 3.5 = 1.14 times as wide, which is 14 percent wider.

To keep the pattern's size, multiply the pattern's stitch count by your stitches per inch divided by the pattern's stitches per inch. Rows work the same way. If the pattern needs a stitch multiple (for example "multiple of 4 plus 3"), the calculator also shows the nearest counts that fit it and the width each would give.

Example

A pattern gives 16 stitches and 18 rows over 4 in. Your swatch gives 14 stitches and 16 rows over 4 in. Your fabric is 14.3 percent wider and 12.5 percent taller than the pattern's. To keep the size for a pattern that casts on 60 stitches, you need 52.5 stitches at your gauge, so work 52 or 53. If you would rather keep the stitch counts, use a hook one size smaller and swatch again.

Changing your hook

This is a rule of thumb, not a standard. If your fabric is within about 3 percent of the pattern's width, it is a close match for most projects. If your piece comes out bigger than the pattern (you get fewer stitches per inch), use a smaller hook; if it comes out smaller, use a larger hook. A difference up to about 10 percent usually means one hook size, and more than that means one or two sizes, followed by a new swatch. Hook sizes are listed in the hook size converter. Tension varies with the yarn, the stitch and the person, so the swatch is always the final check.

Shaped pieces such as hats and toys usually work better with a hook change than with changed stitch counts, because their increases and decreases are built for one stitch count. Flat pieces such as blankets and scarves can often be adjusted by changing the starting chain.

Questions

My stitch gauge is right but my row gauge is off. What now?

Do not change the hook. Row gauge matters less in most patterns because you can work to a measured length instead of a row count. Where the row count matters (a shaped piece), adjust the number of rows using the calculator.

Why does my gauge change between swatch and project?

Tension drifts with mood, yarn, hook material and how long you have been working. If you notice it, check your gauge again part-way through.

The guide to counting stitches and rows shows how to count accurately, and a short blog post covers why gauge matters. For practice, the free first granny square is a fast swatch-sized project, and the simple beanie ($0.99) lists its gauge on the pattern page.

Sources

These are the references the tables and ranges on this page were compared against. They are guidelines, and makers differ slightly, so your pattern's own hook and gauge always win.

• Craft Yarn Council: Standard Yarn Weight System