How to make a magic ring in crochet
A magic ring (also called a magic circle or adjustable ring) is a loop you start a round piece in and then pull closed, so the centre has no hole. It is how most amigurumi and many hat crowns begin. It feels fiddly for about three attempts and then becomes automatic.
When to use a magic ring
Use it whenever a pattern says "magic ring", "MR" or "magic circle". It suits stuffed toys, where a hole would let the filling show, and the tops of hats and flat circles such as coasters. If a pattern wants a visible hole in the middle (for example an open-centre motif), it will say to chain and join instead, and you should follow that.
The ring works the same in any yarn, but very slippery or very thick yarn can make it harder to keep the ring from loosening later, so the closing and securing steps below matter most there.
What you need
- The yarn and hook your pattern lists (use our hook size converter if your hook is labelled in a different system).
- A yarn needle for the tail, and scissors.
- A stitch marker, if the pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.
Step by step
- Make the loop. Leave a tail about 6 in (15 cm) long. Cross the tail over the working yarn (the strand that runs back to the ball) so the yarn forms a loop, like the first move of a slip knot that you do not tighten. Pinch the crossing point between the thumb and finger of the hand that is not holding the hook. Keep pinching until the first round is finished; this is the hand that stops the ring from collapsing.
- Pull up a loop and chain 1. Put the hook into the loop, yarn over with the working yarn, and pull it back through the loop so there is one loop on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through that loop to make one chain. This chain locks the ring in place. It is not counted as a stitch unless your pattern says so.
- Work the stitches over both strands. Insert the hook into the middle of the loop so that it goes under both strands of the ring, then work a stitch as normal. For a single crochet that is: yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook. Repeat until you have the number of stitches the pattern gives; 6 single crochet is the usual start for amigurumi. Push the stitches close together so they cover the ring.
- Pull the tail to close the ring. Hold the work and pull the tail. The centre should shrink until the first round forms a tight circle with no hole. If nothing happens, tug each of the two strands that cross the centre gently and see which one slides; that is the one that closes the ring.
- Mark the round and secure the tail. If the pattern is worked in a spiral, put a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round now and move it up as you go. If it says to join, slip stitch into the first stitch. When you reach a convenient point, thread the tail on a yarn needle and weave it in on the wrong side, through several stitches in one direction and then back in the other, so it cannot work loose.
Left-handed crocheters can mirror every hand position above. If you would like a very short version, our earlier magic ring quick tutorial uses a double-wrapped loop, which gives the same result with a second strand to manage when closing.
Common problems and fixes
The ring will not close
The usual cause is that the stitches went around only one of the two strands. Take the work apart and redo the first round with the hook going under both. The other possibility is that you are pulling the strand that does not move; try the other one.
The hole reopens after a few rounds
Pull the tail firm again after round two, before you weave it in, because the stitches give a little as you work. When you weave the tail in, go through several stitches and double back. A quick rescue for a small gap that remains is to thread the tail on a yarn needle, pass it through the front loops of the first round and pull snug.
The loop collapses before you finish round 1
That is normal early on. Undo it and start again; a magic ring takes under a minute to remake. Pinching the crossing point harder, and working the first stitches a little slower, helps.
The hook will not fit into the ring
Open the loop a little by relaxing your pinch, work the first stitch, and keep the loop open until at least three stitches are in. Count as you go so you know when you have reached the number the pattern asks for; our guide to counting stitches and rounds shows how.
If you do not want to use a magic ring
You can chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring, then work the first round into the middle of it. A second option is to chain 2 and work the first round of stitches into the second chain from the hook. Both leave a small hole in the centre. That is acceptable for a flat coaster or a hat that will be worn, but it is a poor choice for a stuffed toy, where the filling can show through. Check the pattern before you swap methods, because the stitch count in round 1 still has to match.
Practise on a real pattern
The free mini amigurumi ball starts with a magic ring and is small enough to redo if it goes wrong. Once the ring feels comfortable, try Pip the whale ($0.99) or the mossy mushroom friend ($0.99). If your finished piece comes out a different size than the pattern says, the gauge calculator shows how to adjust, and the guide to fixing mistakes covers frogging back to the start of a round.
